Badaguan — the 'Eight Great Passes' — is ten leafy streets, each named for a fortress along the Great Wall and each planted with a different flowering tree.
It is the city's slowest, most photogenic quarter: garden villas behind stone walls, wedding photographers at every corner, and the sea appearing suddenly at the end of Huiquan Road.
Stay in one of the heritage villas, walk before nine, and let the morning go nowhere in particular.