The brewery on Dengzhou Road has been making beer since 1903, and the street outside has become a shrine to it — fresh draught sold by the kilo, ladled into a plastic bag with a straw.
Pair it the local way: clams stir-fried with chilli, grilled squid, and a paper cone of just-fried scallion pancakes from a stall two doors down.
Come in August for the international beer festival, when the whole city turns into one long open-air beer hall.